By My Own Hand

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Wool Information

Why Use Wool at All in Period Costume?

Well, firstly, even 'non-period wools' will hang more like 'period wools' than cotton (Although I am somewhat suspicious of anyone who proclaims a worsted wool twill or plain-weave 'non-period' because of its fineness). Also, cotton of an equivalent weight does not breathe as well in hot weather as wool does. This is based on personal experience, and I know from speaking with others who have worn both that my experience is not abnormal.

What is Wool Crepe?

Wool crepe is a broken twill made with highly twisted yarns (the texture is produced by the weave and the overtwisted yarns working together). It has a visually smooth, but slightly nubbly texture, and can feel like anything from smooth to bumpy. If it has a relatively smooth 'feel', it should be fine for period clothing. It hangs like any other wool twill. If you already have some, and want to make it look more 'period', full it in the washing machine or bathtub (do this with a sample with finished edges first to know how it will turn out). This will felt the yarns and make the texture less obvious.

Dry Clean Only and Natural Fibers

Why are natural fibers - wool, silk, linen so often labeled 'Dry Clean Only', when we know that they can be cleaned if cleaned properly?

Because they shrink (or are otherwise non-machine-wash freindly), and clothing manufacturers don't prewash fabric before sewing, and fabric manufacturers don't either (probably to maximize price/yard). Add to this that they both now expect that modern sempsters don't have any concept of how to preshrink fabric before sewing. I've noticed that many modern sewing books simply leave out any prewashing instructions, unless they are stage costume sewing books, which expect you to have to torture anything that comes through your shop.

Conditioning Shampoo as Wool Wash

Conditioning shampoos happen to work really nicely for washing wool.

If I have to wash wool (I always do this by a long soak, without agitation, in the tub, BTW, unless I'm TRYING to felt it) and I know it'll get scratchy, I'll actually add conditioner to the second rinse bath. It does wonders for mildly scratchy wools, just like it does wonders for frizzy hair.